Located in the heart of Burlington, just three blocks from Church Street, is the unexpectedly authentic Italian restaurant called Trattoria Delia. We were first introduced to this eatery by Middlebury Women’s varsity soccer coach, Peter Kim, who raved that this place boasted some of the best Italian food outside of Italy. I was obviously skeptical; great Italian food and Vermont just didn’t seem to make sense in my mind. However, inspired by a much-needed shopping trip, we decided to escape to “civilization” (aka Burlington) and give this Old World Italian restaurant a chance.
Upon arrival, it was as if we were stepping back in time to fifth and sixth century Europe. Caroline commented that once we stepped through the doors, we had exited Burlington and entered into the world of Nottingham and Robin Hood. I wouldn’t be surprised if Little John and Friar Tuck once dined at places like this. The restaurant has a wine cellar feel with stonewalls, dim lighting and a charming fireplace. The wine bottles that elegantly graced every table served as a clear indicator that this wasn't the common college kid’s establishment and we were somewhat underdressed for the occasion. As we were guided to our seats while classical Italian opera boomed overhead, Maddy Boston, recipient of the “Battler of the Year Award” and the “Inspiration Award” who proudly sported a Middlebury crewneck sweatshirt, quietly uttered, “Thanks for the heads up Pete”.
As we opened the menu and were given fresh warm bread and garlic butter, it was evident that we were about to embark on an eating adventure of grand proportions. Caroline and I in typical fashion split two appetizers. We enjoyed the veal and spinach meatball special, which was served with a lemon and caper glaze. The lemon sauce and zest served as a twist on an otherwise common dish and could have been an epic failure, but I am pleased to admit that it completely changed the way I view meatballs. The lemon and capers added an element of freshness. Well done, Pete. We also split the “Scarmoza alla Griglia”, described as Wood-grilled handmade smoked mozzarella served on a bed of arugula with grilled tomatoes, eggplant and zucchini drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil. After my first bite of mozzarella, I thought for sure that I was experiencing the highpoint in the meal. Trattoria Delia’s wood-grilled handmade smoked mozzarella was hands down the best variation of this cheese I have ever had the pleasure of trying. In fact, the mozzarella was so good that I honestly cannot comment on the other parts of the dish because they were more of an afterthought while I was politely scarfing down the dish. Across the table with a mouthful of mozzarella, Caroline nodded in agreement.
Madeline Dougie Boston ordered the bruschetta as an appetizer and she said that while it was very good, there was nothing that made the dish stand out from others she has had before. The dish was presented nicely with a heaping of tomatoes and herbs on each crostini. However, I’d have to agree with Maddy that unlike the heapings of mozzarella that I was shoving into my mouth, this dish didn’t rock my world.
For entrees, Caroline and I split the Pasta Parmigiana al Forno and the Pollo alla Diavola. The rigatoni dish was served in a cast pot with Trattoria’s homemade tomato basil sauce with a veal meatball, sweet sausage, fried eggplant and topped with homemade mozzarella. While undeniably good, much like the bruschetta, this dish was nothing unbelievable. The sauce was a little dull and certainly could not compare to the high standards set by the homemade sauce of John Favorito, father to our resident Italian, all-star freshman, and recently taken (sorry boys), Julie Favorito. But what the pasta dish lacked, the Pollo alla Diavolo made up for. The free-range (we were reminded in this moment that we were still in Vermont) chicken was marinated in lemon, extra-virgin olive oil and herbs, oven-roasted with garlic, chilies and black pepper, served with a Roman salad of greens, grilled artichoke and shaved red onion. After the first bite, I instantly wished I hadn’t agreed to share. Across the table, shooting me dirty looks of disdain, it was clear that Caroline agreed. Our table of four agreed that this was the best chicken dish that any of us had ever had the joy of eating. The chicken was cooked to perfection and the chilies and black pepper added a spice that was flavorful without being overwhelming. Given the large portion size, the prices at Trattoria Delia were certainly fair. Appetizers range from $5-$12 and entrees from $14-$30.
The night began with a feeling of discomfort about being slightly underdressed and ended with us driving home, blue jeans unbuttoned uncomfortably but happily full. While the restaurant’s atmosphere won’t make this place a MiddKid’s common joint, the moderately reasonable prices, sinfully good food, and our big fat two thumbs up endorsement hopefully will entice students to take a break from Middlebury and the twenty-first century and spend an evening treating their taste buds in Nottingham.
Bruchetta $6.50
Pasta Parmigiana al Forno $17.50
Insalata con Proscuitto e Aceto Balsamico $9.50
(aka a salad of Proscuitto di Parma, organic bay greens, agrodolce onions, toasted pine nuts and shaved Grana Padano cheese, drizzled with aged balsamico)
Pollo alla Diavola $19.50
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